mercoledì 28 giugno 2023

 


"I'd love to say something heroic. I'd love to say we made history. But basically it was a bunch of guys parked around the Bay there, and somebody grabbed a board and went surfing, and it looked so good the rest of us guys said, 'Hey, we got to get in on this.'"

 (Greg Noll, soprannominato "Da bull", surfista famoso per aver affrontato con successo onde considerate impossibili o letali; San Diego, 11 febbraio 1937 – Crescent City, 28 giugno 2021)

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